BEHIND THE SCENES

Recap Helmut Lang FW2024 / Stylish Sanctuary: The Art of Safety in Peter Do’s Helmut Lang Creation

PROTECTION VS. PROJECTION

The Helmut Lang Fall/Winter collection epitomized the theme of “Protection vs. Projection.” The aesthetic was meticulously crafted with a restrained color palette, dominated by bold blacks and accented with subtle whites, browns, and pops of vibrant orange, setting the tone. This deliberate choice, curated by Peter Do, emphasized the collection's overarching concept of protection. This marked Do's second runway as the creative director of the label, and for Fall/Winter 2024, he devised a wardrobe that prioritized safety without compromising on character.

Helmut Lang Instagram Feed showing modeling

The focal point of the makeup? A mesmerizingly smudged eye, evoking the raw energy of '90s grunge with a modern edge by Daniel Sallstrom. This deliberate choice served as a visual metaphor for the clash between perfection and chaos, echoing the collection's theme of protection versus projection.

Model using makeup by Daniel Sallstrom

And as for the nails? They mirrored the windswept grunge aesthetic of '90s makeup, showcasing smudged eyeliner and disheveled eye makeup. It was as though the elements had left their mark, yet amidst the disorder, simplicity and chicness prevailed.

Black bag/case with the name Hemut Lang in high relief

Nail test

Peter Do meticulously planned the makeup, hair, and nail visions for the show. Among the various attempts, we settled on simpler nail looks to complement the collection seamlessly.

Printed photos of hair and nails pasted on the wall

Keywords: Protection, Projection, Chaos, Control, Weathered, Camouflaged, Burnt, Windswept

  • Test 1: Smudged black eyeliner nails: Initially designed on an opaque base, the designer's preference for a sheer base led us to execute it accordingly.
  • Test 2: Camouflaged black smudge nails: Inspired by the makeup on the mood board, we created sponge effects on a clean nail base to achieve this look for male models.
  • Test 3: Opaque Nudes: Keeping in line with the neutral color palettes, we opted for opaque nude shades.
  • Test 4: Orange: Drawing from one of the collection's colors, we mimicked an orange hue to add vibrancy.
  • Test 5: Black Cherry: Catering to the designer's desire for a matching shade that accentuates darker skin tones, we chose a black cherry hue.
  • Test 6: Sheers and accent nail art: Tailored to different skin tones, we curated sheer shades, with accent nail art for added flair.

Behind-the Scenes

I have a deep appreciation for behind-the-scenes moments. The diverse mix of female and male models, spanning various age groups and backgrounds, creates an incredibly dynamic atmosphere akin to a grand event or festive birthday celebration. Admittedly, I felt a bit pressured since it was my first show of the season. However, witnessing both new and seasoned models collaborating was invaluable.

Happy models showing off their nails

Interacting with the models was an absolute delight—I found myself thoroughly enjoying our time together. From impromptu dances to lighthearted moments like carrying Peter on my back, every interaction was memorable. Moreover, forging new friendships and reconnecting with old ones added an irreplaceable layer of richness to the experience.

Final Looks

For the final looks, Peter opted for a simple yet chic approach, considering the grunge-inspired makeup. He chose two sheer looks for pale and medium skin tones and a black cherry hue for dark skin tones for both female and male models.

Look 1: Black Cherry

Dark skin model using JINsoon black cherry nail polish

The black cherry shade stole the spotlight on the FW2024 runways, communicating an edgy vibe with its rebellious charm. JINsoon Risque emerged as the season's hero, handpicked by Peter Do for its striking contrast and seamless compatibility with darker skin tones.

Create Black Cherry Look

  1. Prep your nails by cleaning and shaping as desired.
  2. Apply a thin coat of JINsoon Power Coat Base Coat.
  3. Apply two coats of JINsoon Risque to the entire nail. Allow time to dry.
  4. Finish with a thin layer of JINsoon Top Gloss Top Coat for a shiny finish.

Tools and Products Used:

Look 2 Sheers: Rosy and smoky sheers

Rosy And Smoky Sheers Sheers have evolved beyond subtlety; they now embody both elegance and edge! JINsoon introduced two exciting additions to her sheer collection: a glamorous rose sheer and a contemporary, edgy smokey sheer. Helmut Lang embraced the versatility of Whisper, a new rosy sheer launched in March, featuring pink undertones ideal for pale skin tones. Meanwhile, a smoky nude shade, which I will be launching in August, was chosen for both pale and medium skin tones, adding a modern twist to the classic sheer look. Create a Rosy Sheer / Smoky Sheer Look: Begin by preparing your nails through cleaning and shaping as desired. Apply a thin coat of JINsoon Power Coat Base coat. Apply one coat of Whisper, a rosy sheer, to the entire nail. Allow time to dry. Finish with a thin layer of JINsoon Top Gloss topcoat for a shiny finish. Tools and Products Used: JINsoon High Performance Diamond Nail File, HyperCare Cuticle Pusher + Reducer, Honeysuckle + Primrose Cuticle Oil, Power Coat, Whisper, Smoky Sheer and Top Gloss Credits Creative Director Peter Do Makeup Daniel Sallstrom Hair Jawara W Nails: Jin Soon Choi with team JINsoon

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